Historical textile dyeing with Genista tinctoria L.: a comprehensive study by UPLC-MS/MS analysis

Abstract

Polyphenolic components from Genista species have been well characterised because of their potential as antioxidants and as therapeutic leads; however, the identification of dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) in historical textiles has been the subject of only limited studies. This paper presents a comprehensive UPLC-PDA MS/MS study of reference and historical yarns dyed with this species. Several so far unreported dye components that could assist with the identification of this dye source, were characterised by MS/MS. Furthermore, the effect of photo-degradation and textile preparation techniques (such as over-dyeing) on the dye fingerprint was investigated and the results correlated with those obtained from historical samples from the Burrell and Bodleian collections, UK.