Open Access Article
Emanuella F. Fiandra
a,
Matthieu Starck
a,
Elliot K. Findlaya,
Josephine Binksa,
Gang Sib,
Ruth Chiltonb,
Mark R. Sivikc,
Richard L. Thompson
a,
Mark R. Wilson
*a and
Clare S. Mahon
*a
aDepartment of Chemistry, Durham University, Durham, DH1 3LE, UK. E-mail: clare.mahon@durham.ac.uk
bThe Procter & Gamble Newcastle Innovation Centre, Whitley Rd, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE12 9BZ, UK
cFabric & Home Care Innovation Center, The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio 45202, USA
First published on 15th October 2025
Soil release polymers (SRPs) are used in laundry detergent formulations to enable the cleaning of textiles at lower wash temperatures and using shorter cycles. By modifying the fabric surface, SRPs prevent redeposition of soil during the wash cycle, and also assist with the removal of soil in the subsequent wash cycle. Most SRPs currently used in formulations contain petroleum-sourced building blocks, including terephthalic acid, potentially limiting the environmental benefit of their use. To improve the sustainability profile of these key additives, diglyoxylic acid xylose (DGAX, 1), a monomer derived from hemicellulose, was used to partially replace the terephthalic acid component of SRPs. The ability of these copolymers to modify fabric surfaces was explored using anti-redeposition and soil release performance tests, in addition to contact angle and SEM analysis. The introduction of 1 within copolymers was found to further enhance the anti-redeposition performance on polyspandex fabrics, however, complete replacement of the terephthalic acid component with 1 resulted in polymers which displayed poor performance. These copolymer systems present a promising route to the development of high-performance and sustainable SRPs, particularly in offering performance across different synthetic textile surfaces.
Green foundation1. Soil release polymers (SRPs) are used in laundry detergent formulations to enable effective cleaning performance during shorter cycles at low wash temperatures, presenting clear environmental benefits. Most SRPs are constructed using petroleum-derived building blocks, limiting their environmental benefits. Here, we report a new class of SRPs where a proportion of a petroleum-derived monomer, terephthalic acid, is replaced with a biomass-derived alternative, diglyoxylic acid xylose.2. SRPs are shown to match the performance of conventional SRPs on polyester substrates and to exceed performance of currently used SRPs on polyspandex. These SRPs therefore present enhanced cleaning performance and an improved environmental profile. 3. Our studies have provided insights into the mechanism of surface modification by SRPs, which will guide the future design of biobased detergent additives. |
Soil release polymers (SRPs) deposit on fibres, and hence change the surface properties,19,20 delivering benefits such as reducing soil deposition onto the fabric during the wash cycle and further promoting the removal of soil from SRP-modified fabric surfaces in the next wash cycle (Fig. 1). SRPs also reduce the adhesion of allergens to the fabric,21,22 reduce malodour on consumer garments,23–27 and improve wicking properties.28,29 These improvements in fabric appearance and comfort can also extend the service life of textiles, offering further sustainability benefits, with extended garment lifetimes contributing to reductions in the amounts of textile waste disposed of in landfill sites.4 The presence of aromatic units in conventional SRPs is critical for their deposition, with these units predominantly derived from terephthalate monomers (Fig. 1a), which are obtained through the oxidation of petrochemically sourced p-xylene.30 While advances have been made in the production of terephthalic acid from biomass,31–33 these approaches are currently less efficient than traditional petrochemical routes. More generally, the need to move away from petrochemically-derived feedstocks has resulted in rising interest in sustainably sourced monomers34 and monomers that are biobased,35 to improve the sustainability profile of these key detergent additives.36–39
One attractive alternative to petrochemical-based feedstocks is the use of lignocellulosic biomass, due to the inherently degradable nature and high abundance of these materials.40–43 Lignocellulose is comprised of three principal fractions: cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin; organised into macrofibrils which mediate the structural stability of plant cell walls.44 Hemicellulose is the second most abundant component in lignocellulose, and when hydrolysed gives rise to the 5- and 6-carbon monosaccharides glucose, xylose, arabinose, galactose and mannose.45 For low-cost production of sugars,46 sources high in hemicellulose and low in lignin content such as birch wood47 and corn cobbs48 provide a promising supply. Manker et al. reported49 the synthesis of biosourced polymers derived from monomers prepared from the hemicellulosic fraction extracted from birch wood in a high yielding, scalable process. In this approach, the fused heterotricyclic diacid diglyoxylic acid xylose (DGAX) (1), and the corresponding dimethyl ester, dimethylglyoxylate xylose, were produced though the reaction of xylose with diglyoxylic acid, and used to make polyesters. It was additionally shown that these monomers can be accessed directly from hemicellulose via aldehyde-assisted fractionation50 to produce xylose, which can then be transformed into the diacid monomers. Similar approaches have also been used to synthesise biobased surfactants from lignocellulosic biomass.51–53 Lignocellulose and derivatives have been used54 to permanently modify fabric surfaces to infer functionality such as UV resistance and fire retardancy, demonstrating the potential of these biomass derived materials to modify surface properties.
In this paper, we report the synthesis of a series of SRPs (P1–P5) that contain varying proportions of biobased monomer 1 and dimethyl terephthalate (2) and explore their performance in laundry detergent formulations. To gain further insight into the differences in wash performance and establish structure–property relationships, the behaviour of SRPs in solution and at the textile interface was studied in simplified systems using a range of techniques: contact angle measurements, scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and dynamic light scattering (DLS).
Molecular modelling was used to compare binding affinities for SRP cores to representative PET and PS surfaces, and provide insights into the folding and aggregation of SRPs in water. We demonstrate that incorporation of 1 into SRPs leads to strong binding to both fabrics, significantly increasing binding affinity for PS. However, strong intra-chain interactions between units of 1 increase solution aggregation such that SRPs containing larger proportions of 1 form larger aggregates (surrounded by a PEG corona) that do not adhere effectively to fabric surfaces. Combining 1 and 2 in the central block of the polymer disrupts solution aggregation, yielding SRPs that match the performance of currently used SRPs on PET, and show a markedly improved performance on PS fabrics.
| Polymer | 1/eq. | 2/eq. | 3/eq. | 4/eq. | na | ma | DP | % of 1 | Mn a/g mol−1 |
Mn b/g mol−1 |
Mw b/g mol−1 |
Đb |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| a As determined by 1H NMR spectroscopy, using end-group –OCH3 as reference for analysis.b As determined by gel permeation chromatography in 1.0 g L−1 LiBr in DMF at 50 °C (0.6 mL min−1), calibrated against near monodisperse poly(methyl methacrylate) standards. | ||||||||||||
| P1 | 0 | 10 | 400 | 2 | 5 | 0 | 5 | 0 | 5200 | 5800 | 6400 | 1.1 |
| P2 | 1 | 9 | 400 | 2 | 6 | 1 | 7 | 12 | 5600 | 6000 | 6600 | 1.1 |
| P3 | 2 | 8 | 400 | 2 | 6 | 2 | 8 | 25 | 6000 | 6200 | 6800 | 1.1 |
| P4 | 5 | 5 | 400 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 6 | 50 | 5600 | 5200 | 5900 | 1.1 |
| P5 | 20 | 0 | 400 | 2 | 0 | 6 | 6 | 100 | 6000 | 5700 | 6200 | 1.1 |
Following this method, a series of homopolymers and copolymers were prepared using 1/2 as the dicarboxylate component (Table 1). The stoichiometric ratio of 1 and 2 was varied to produce polymers containing 0–100% 1 as the dicarboxylate component. The resultant polymers were analysed by 1H NMR spectroscopy (SI section S8.2) and gel permeation chromatography (GPC) (SI section S2.5) to confirm the structure of the polymer, and determine the degree of polymerisation (DP) of each unit present in the hydrophobic block (Table 1). Consistent molecular weights of 5.2 to 6.0 kDa were attained across the series P1–P5 (Table 1 and SI Fig. S1).
A high-throughput tergotometer system was used to evaluate the anti-redeposition performance of P1–P5, with PET and PS tracers washed under representative wash conditions (40 min wash, 2 × 15 min rinse, 35 °C, water hardness 360 ppm, 4 cycles). Each wash load also included knitted cotton and polycotton fabric swatches to represent a consumer wash load, along with soil. Commercially-sourced artificial soil sheets (SBL2004 WFK, Krefeld, Germany) were cut into 5 × 5 cm2 squares and included in each wash together with white PET and PS fabric tracers (also 5 × 5 cm2 squares) with the soil consisting of vegetable oil, synthetic sebum and solid particles such as carbon black and kaolin.13 Soiled fabric sheets were replaced after each wash cycle, and image analysis was used to quantify anti-redeposition performance in terms of the change in whiteness index (ΔWI) of PET or PS tracers. A negative control experiment (Nil) was performed, with no SRPs present in the detergent formulation, to allow for a direct comparison with detergent formulation containing SRPs under study (1% w/w). The ΔWI was determined by comparing the WI of fabric tracers washed with SRP-containing formulations to the WI of the negative control. SRPs that perform well produce a high positive ΔWI value.
P1, which is representative of conventional terephthalate-based SRPs, showed a significant whiteness benefit for PET fabrics (Fig. 2b), as expected due to its similarity in structure to the surface enabling favourable supramolecular interactions between the core block of the SRP and the PET surface.56 Interestingly, copolymers P2–P4 exhibited similar performance on PET, comparable to that of the homopolymer P1. Conversely, P5 demonstrated little to no performance on PET fabric, demonstrating inclusion of a proportion of monomer 2 to be crucial to anti-redeposition performance. Results for P2 and P3, however, suggest that equivalent anti-redeposition performance on PET fabrics can be achieved at dicarboxylate monomer compositions of up to 25% bioderived monomer 1.
Interestingly, the anti-redeposition performance benefit of SRPs containing both dicarboxylate components (P2–P4) on PS fabric was greater than that of either P1 or P5, with average ΔWI at least doubling in value (Fig. 2c). SRPs currently used in formulations typically display limited anti-redeposition performance on PS fabrics, analogous to observations for P1. PS fabrics are typically comprised of a blend of both PET and polyether–polyurea fibres, most commonly 95% PET and 5% polyether–polyurea. The inclusion of 1 therefore offers a marked benefit to SRP performance in extending anti-redeposition performance to PS fabrics, enabling effective cleaning of PS fabrics under environmentally favourable conditions.
PET surfaces modified with P2 resulted in an ΔSRI value of 66.2 ± 0.6% which was comparable to the conventional polymer P1 (67.9 ± 0.1%) (Fig. 3b). This observation suggests that the incorporation of 12% of monomer 1 into the central block of the SRP does not negatively impact the soil release performance. P3 and P4, however, displayed a significantly lower performance with ΔSRI values ranging from 20 to 29%. P5 displayed the lowest ΔSRI value of 9 ± 2%, highlighting its inability to effectively facilitate the removal of DMO from a treated surface during a wash cycle. A different trend is observed when PS surfaces are treated with polymers containing 1 (Fig. 3c), with the copolymer P3 displaying high ΔSRI value of 66 ± 1%, respectively, exceeding that of the conventional polymer P1 (45 ± 1%). P4 and P5 displayed marked decreases in performance, however. In gravimetric sebum removal tests (SI section S3.3) P2–P4 were observed to display comparable performance to the conventional SRP, P1, on PE and PS surfaces demonstrating that favourable serum release can be facilitated by SRPs containing a proportion of biomass-derived monomer 1. However, the homopolymer P5 showed no additional benefit compared to the negative control (Nil) highlighting the importance of the aromatic unit in enabling effective modification of PET and PS fabric surfaces.
Taken together, performance studies demonstrate that fabric surface modification has taken place, and show that comparable performance to SRPs currently used in formulations could be achieved on PET fabrics, while incorporating significant quantities of biobased monomer 1. The soil-release and anti-redeposition performance of SRPs containing up to 50% 1 on PET surfaces were also comparable to those reported in our previous study35 which employed biomass-derived pyridine dicarboxylate monomers. In the case of PS, however, the inclusion of monomer 1 improved the performance of SRPs beyond those currently in formulation, offering an enhanced overall environmental profile. The structural factors driving these differences in performance were not immediately evident, and we therefore conducted a series of experiments to investigate the solution behaviour and surface activity of SRPs using a simplified representative system.
In line with previous studies,35 we identified a correlation between solution aggregation state and soil release performance. SRPs observed to self-assemble to yield larger aggregates (e.g. P5 Dh 100 nm at 1% w/w), were found to display poor performance, while polymers observed to form smaller aggregates (e.g. P1–P3 Dh 10–20 nm) were shown to function more effectively.
To understand the factors that contribute to the observed aggregation of 1-containing SRPs, umbrella sampling simulations were performed on the association of two molecules of P4, and two molecules of P5, to obtain a potential of mean force (PMF), where the reaction coordinate is the separation between the centre of mass of each core unit (Fig. 5a). An aggregate of two polymers was equilibrated in solution using a general molecular dynamics workflow, before steered molecular dynamics (SMD)58 was applied to separate the polymers at a rate of 1 Å ns−1, from the minimum possible distance to a maximum of 99 Å. Snapshots from the SMD simulations were captured at distances from the minimum to 99 Å, with a separation of roughly 1 Å between windows. Each window simulation was then run for 40 ns, with a restraint potential of 2.5 kcal mol−1 to keep the polymers in place. The configurations from these simulations were then reweighted using the weighted histogram analysis method (WHAM)59 and combined to generate the PMF for each SRP aggregate complex.
The difference in free energy of aggregation can then be derived from the PMF plot by subtracting the energy of the plateau region (full separation) from the energy of the bound state (minimum distance), which is normalised to 0 kcal mol−1.
Simulations suggest that the aggregation of P5 is energetically more favourable than that of P4, with significantly more energy required to separate the cores (Fig. 5a). It is likely that this aggregation is driven by strong hydrophobic effects. Affinity between units of 2 is also evidenced in simulations where five P3 and P5 polymer molecules were studied in 1% (w/w) solution (Fig. 5b, SI section S7.4). Larger aggregates are present after 20 ns for P5 compared to P3, consistent with the observation of larger assemblies in DLS studies. For P3, inter-core interactions are mainly mediated by π–π stacking but this is disrupted by the presence of 1. Moreover, π–π stacking in water is sufficiently weak to be dynamic60,61 allowing relatively rapid chain refolding, as seen in our previous work on pyridine dicarboxylate-based polymers.35
:
5) solution (1% w/w in THF) spin-coated onto a silicon wafer (2000 rpm, 30 s). The model PET and PS surfaces were shown to display average water contact angles of 70.1° and 63.3°, respectively, indicative of hydrophobic surfaces.
Surfaces were then treated with a solution of SRP (P1–P5, 1% w/w) for 40 min, then inverted to allow for the removal of undeposited SRP. A 5 μL droplet of deionised water was then placed on each of the SRP-treated surfaces, with the contact angle measured at room temperature (SI Fig. S4). All surfaces modified with SRP displayed a reduction in the contact angle, ranging from 5.0° to 19.4° (SI Fig. S4), suggesting deposition of polymer and surface hydrophilisation.
Water contact angles were measured after the SRP-modified surfaces underwent a dip rinse (Fig. 6), to better reflect the overall wash process and provide a greater understanding regarding the extent of surface deposition. On PET surfaces treated with P2–P4, contact angles between 10.1 and 21.3° were observed, in line with the contact angle observed for surfaces treated with P1 (19.2°), suggesting that surface hydrophilization has been retained. The PET surface treated with P5 displayed an increased contact angle after rinsing (39.6°), suggesting a decrease in effective SRP surface concentration and increased hydrophobicity, which may account for the poor soil-release performance observed. PS surfaces treated with P2 and P3 displayed contact angles after rinsing of 18.3 to 20.5°, in line with that displayed by a surface treated with P1 and rinsed (21.5°). Surfaces treated with P4 and P5 displayed an increased contact angle after rinsing (41.1–44.7°). This relative surface hydrophobicity is consistent with the poor performance of these polymers in soil-release tests (Fig. 3), suggesting that these SRPs are easily removed from the surface by rinsing.
SEM imaging was performed to gain further insight into the deposition of the SRPs on both PET and PS fabric surfaces. Samples for SEM analysis were prepared by soaking 1 × 1 cm2 fabric swatches in solutions of P1–P5 (1% w/w) (210 rpm, 35 °C). Fabrics were air dried overnight before sputter coating with a gold–palladium conducting layer. SEM images were then taken at a range of magnifications (Fig. 7 and SI Fig. S5, S6) to show the morphological changes to fabric fibres as SRP deposit and modify their surface. A reference sample was imaged to allow for a direct comparison between an unmodified and modified fabric surface. In each case, changes in surface morphology were evident, consistent with deposition of SRPs P1–P5 on surfaces.
Image analysis of the reference PET sample (Fig. 7a and SI Fig. S5) showed the presence of a textured surface with sharp elements raised on the surface with a maximum length of 2 μm. Despite these sharp elements remaining present to some extent after SRP-surface modification, surfaces treated with P1–P4 appear smoother, suggesting that SRPs have coated the surface of the fibres. The presence of SRPs was also highlighted by the build-up of polymer in the gaps of the fibres, thereby increasing the surface area and eliminating potential locations for soil to collect (Fig. 7a, feature 1). Surfaces treated with poorly-performing P5 appeared to be more textured, with additional build-up on the surface as the raised elements increased in size to greater than 2 μm and were more irregular in topology compared to the reference fabric. This irregularity in surface topology may partially account for the increased deposition of hydrophobic material on these surfaces.
Images were also collected for PS textiles (Fig. 7b and SI Fig. S6). Here, the reference PS showed a highly irregular structure that was very textured with crystalline features. The fabric treated with P1 displayed a similar appearance to the reference fabric, which could contribute to the poor performance of this SRP. Incubation in solutions of P1–P3 appeared to smooth the surface to varying extents, with notable improvements in morphology noted for P2. Surfaces treated with P4 and P5 displayed similar surface morphologies to unmodified PS, including the presence of irregular deposits (Fig. 7b, feature 2), which may suggest a higher degree of heterogeneity in surface modification with SRP.
To rationalise the differences in interfacial behaviour observed, we calculated surface binding energies for truncated SRP core units and model PET and PS surfaces using a MM/PBSA62 approach (Table 2; SI section S7.3). The calculated modified free energy of binding
represents a combination of energy gained through non-covalent surface association, including van der Waals and electrostatic interactions, solvation effects, and also incorporates the contribution of chain folding in aqueous solution. Notably, the calculated binding energies correlate with the observed performance in anti-redeposition studies (Fig. 2b and c). Core structures containing 2, or combinations of 1 and 2, were predicted to interact favourably with both PET and PS surfaces. The addition of 1 to the core was observed to increase affinity to the surfaces (ΔGbind). The overall strongest binding,
, predicted for P3 cores on a PET surface. Calculated
values for association of copolymer cores P2–P4 with PS surfaces are more favourable than that of P1, explaining their enhanced performance on this substrate. The inclusion of 1 in the core, however, was predicted to increase the favourability of self-association (ΔGfold), in line with PMF calculations demonstrating strong self-interactions (Fig. 5a) and the observation of large aggregates in DLS studies (Fig. 4b). The surfaces of these large aggregates are likely to be highly hydrophilic as a consequence of the high density of PEG chains within the corona, and they are therefore either unlikely to deposit on a hydrophobic fabric surface, or are likely to be easily removed by rinsing. Interestingly, calculations suggested that P5, which contained 1 as the sole dicarboxylate component and displayed poor performance, would interact favourably with PET and PS surfaces (ΔGbind). Effective performance is likely prevented by the tendency of P5 to form large aggregates in solution (Fig. 4b), driven by significant self-association (ΔGfold). The inclusion of 2 suppresses aggregation in solution (Fig. 4b), with reductions in calculated ΔGfold observed. These observations may suggest that an important role of the terephthalate component in enabling SRP performance within this series is in suppression of aggregation, in addition to directly interacting with the fabric surface, presenting opportunities to replace 2 with another biobased monomer, to further improve the sustainability profile of the SRPs.
| Polymer core | Surface | ΔGgas/kcal mol−1 | ΔGsolv/kcal mol−1 | ΔGbind/kcal mol−1 | ΔGfold/kcal mol−1 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | PET | −101.63 (0.63) | 85.45 (0.40) | −16.18 (0.66) | −9.00 (0.31) | −7.18 (0.73) |
| P2 | PET | −114.98 (0.78) | 94.84 (0.51) | −20.14 (0.85) | −10.97 (0.37) | −9.17 (0.93) |
| P3 | PET | −120.79 (0.84) | 99.28 (0.54) | −21.52 (0.89) | −9.37 (0.41) | −12.14 (0.98) |
| P4 | PET | −109.98 (0.77) | 89.38 (0.46) | −20.60 (0.79) | −13.51 (0.40) | −7.08 (0.88) |
| P5 | PET | −127.40 (0.87) | 100.69 (0.50) | −26.71 (0.90) | −29.29 (0.45) | 2.57 (1.01) |
| P1 | PS | −95.16 (0.61) | 82.33 (0.40) | −12.83 (0.65) | −8.40 (0.30) | −4.43 (0.72) |
| P2 | PS | 107.54 (0.77) | 90.85 (0.50) | −16.69 (0.84) | −10.44 (0.37) | −6.26 (0.92) |
| P3 | PS | −115.08 (0.83) | 96.32 (0.53) | −18.76 (0.89) | −8.97 (0.41) | −9.79 (0.98) |
| P4 | PS | −105.72 (0.75) | 87.53 (0.45) | −18.19 (0.77) | −12.80 (0.39) | −5.39 (0.86) |
| P5 | PS | −122.39 (0.88) | 97.89 (0.50) | −24.49 (0.91) | −27.78 (0.45) | 3.28 (1.01) |
SRPs containing 1 offer an improved sustainability profile to those currently used in formulation, as their performance extends to PS fabrics, offering the benefits of improved cleaning performance at low wash temperatures to an important class of textiles. A limitation of the SRPs described here is the requirement for the incorporation of terephthalic acid within the central block of the polymer. Developments in the production of biosourced terephthalic acid31–33 may offer a route to SRPs with an enhanced sustainability profile. Alternatively, it is possible that other biosourced monomers, such as the pyridine dicarboxylates used in our previous study,35 or other hemicellulose-derived diacids, could be used to replace the terephthalate component altogether. Furthermore, building on the work of Manker et al.,49 the possibility of preparing polymers directly from hemicellulosic biomass could be explored. SRPs constructed using modified polysaccharides have been demonstrated13 to display favourable soil-release performance on PET surfaces, highlighting further opportunities in the development of biosourced alternative additives.
In addition to presenting detergent additives of enhanced performance and improved sustainability profile, our studies have additionally enhanced understanding of the mechanism of action of SRPs. This mechanistic understanding will guide in the future design of biosourced SRPs, with a view to improving the environmental footprint of these key additives.
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