Structural alterations of branched versus linear mixed-surfactant micellar systems with the addition of a complex perfume mixture and dipropylene glycol as cosolvent

Abstract

Personal care products commonly contain perfume mixtures, consisting of numerous perfume raw materials (PRMs), and cosolvents. The lipophilicity and structure of an individual PRM is known to affect its localization within the surfactant self-assembly as well as the micellar geometry. However, because multiple PRMs are used in formulations, significant intermolecular interactions between the PRMs and between the PRMs and the surfactant tail may also influence the location of the PRMs and their effects on the self-assembly. Herein, two anionic/zwitterionic mixed-surfactant systems (sodium trideceth-2 sulfate (ST2S)/cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) and sodium laureth-3 sulfate/CAPB) were formulated with a cosolvent (dipropylene glycol (DPG)) and 12 PRMs of varying structures and lipophilicities. This 12 PRM accord is simpler than a fully formulated perfume but more complex than a single perfume molecule. The geometric variations in the self-assemblies were evaluated using small-angle neutron scattering, perfume head space concentrations were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, and perfume localization was identified using NMR spectroscopy. The addition of the perfume accord caused enlargement of the micelles in both surfactant systems, with a greater change observed for ST2S/CAPB formulations. Furthermore, the addition of DPG to ST2S/CAPB resulted in micelle shrinkage. The micelle geometries and PRM localization in the micelles were affected by the degree of branching in the surfactant tail.